Method and apparatus for automatic cape joining

ABSTRACT

Method and apparatus for automatically joining the cape and neckband portions of a collar along a concurrent arc. The cape is distorted to permit alignment of the arced cape edge with the neckband edge prior to seaming.

United States Patent 1 McFalls [54] METHOD APPARATUS FOR AUTOMATIC CAPEJOINING [75] Inventor: Richard J. McFalls, Troy, N.Y. [73] Assignee:Cluett, Peabody 8: Co., Troy, NY. [22] Filed: May 26, 1971 [21]Appl.No.: 146,908

[52] U.S. C1 ..l12/12l.15, 223/1 [51] Int. Cl. ..D05b 21/00 [58] Field0fSearch....112/121.15, 121.12, 102, 262;

[56] References Cited A I UNITED STATES PATENTS Naftali ..223/l 1 Jan.16, 1973 3,037,472 Loekn'omlnmw...\\........., 111/1111) X 6/19623,034,458 5/1962 LIZ/121112 3,145,392 8/1964 Lockwood et a1 ..2/1433,174,447 3/1965 Bono ..l l2/12l.l2 3,315,625 4/1967 Bennison..l12/12l.12 X

Primary Examiner-James R. Boler Attorney-Leo Fornero, Robert J Dockeryand Robert J. Seligman 57 ABSTRACT Method and apparatus forautomatically joining the cape and neckband portions of a collar along aconcurrent arc. The cape is distorted to permit alignment of the arcedcape edge with the neckband edge prior to seaming.

6 Claims, 7 Drawing Figures PATENTEDJAH 16 ms 3.710.741

SHEET 1 [1F 2 RICHARD J. M FALLS I NVE NTOR.

FIG. 3

PATENTEDJAH 16 I975 SHEET 2 BF 2 FIG.4

RICHARD 3'. M FALLS INVENTQR.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR AUTOMATIC CAPE JOINING BACKGROUND OF THEINVENTION The present invention relates to a method and apparatus forcollar manufacture and more particularly, to the manufacture of twopiece collars in which the collar top or cape and neckband are cutseparately and joined together.

In fabricating the collar, it is necessary to impart a certain amount ofspring" to the collar top, i.e. cause the collar top to stand away fromthe band when folded over it, thereby providing adequate space for anecktie. Additionally, this spring improves the appearance and comfortof the collar.

Typical prior art methods of imparting spring to collars are disclosedin US. Pat. No. 44,022 to C. Spofford, U.S. Pat. No. 322,697 to C. H.Denison and US. Pat. No. 1,314,986 to J. T. Sipperley. The first two ofthese patents involve distortion of the collar unit after the top hasbeen joined to the band. The patent to Sipperley discloses a methodwhich involves a lateral modification-of the collar top configuration.Another method of imparting spring is generally employed during theactual joining of the top to the band along a concurrent are. Thismethod utilizes a difference in curvature viz., the edge of the band issubstantially straight or is curved much less sharply than the edge ofthe top to which it is joined. Because of this difference in curvature,the completed collar does not lie flat, resulting in a spring effect. Inseaming the band and cape together along a concurrent arc, the operatormanually distorts the collar top in order to align the cape edge withthe band edge and then feeds the aligned parts into a sewing machine.Such a procedure has definite drawbacks, one being a lack of uniformityin the collars produced. Additionally, such a procedure requires highlyskilled operators and fails to take advantage of automated cam orpantograph stitching equipment which can sew materials according to apredetermined pattern.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention overcomes these and otherdisadvantages, and one of thefeatures of the present invention is anautomatic distortion of the collar cape so as to provide edge alignmentwith the band prior to joining. Another feature of the present inventionis the production of two piece collars having uniform necktie space.Still another feature is the elimination of the skill and dexterityrequired to join cape and neckband portions along a concurrent arc.

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a machinefor automatically distorting the cape portion to permit joining of thecape and neckband along a concurrent arc.

Another object is to provide two piece collars having uniform necktiespace.

'Another object of the present invention is to provide a cape joiningmachine which can be used in conjunction with automatic cam orpantograph sewing equipment.

A still further object of the present invention is to provide a machinefor automatic cape joining which requires little or no skill to operate.

In accordance with one embodiment of the present invention, apre-assembled outer and interliner ply portion of a neckband is placedin a recessed section of a jig. The cape is then laid upon a projectingelement and is oriented so that the free unfinished edge slightlyoverlaps the recessed area and is in alignment with and covers the edgeof the neckband. A pneumatically operated clamp holds the positionedparts stationary while a second pre-assembled outer and interliner plyportion is placed in juxtaposition with the first ply portion. A secondpneumatically operated clamp locks the positioned components in placewhile a profile stitching machine seams the parts together to form acompleted collar.

For a more complete understanding of the invention, reference should bemade to the drawings, the accompanying detailed description and theappended claims.

IN THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a plan view of a machine constructed inaccordance with the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the machine of FIG. 1.

FIG. 3 is a side elevation of the machine of FIG. 1.

FIG. 4 is a plan view of a cape and a neckband prior to alignment andjoining.

FIG. S-is a plan view of a constructed collar.

FIG. 6 is a vertical sectional view of the collar of FIG. 5 taken alongline AA in FIG. 5.

FIG. 6A is an enlarged illustration of a portion of FIG. 6.

FIG. 7 is a plan view of the machine of FIG. 1 with the collar parts inposition for stitching.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT FIGS. 1, 2, and 3 show a frame 10including ajig l2 varying sizes. Aflap 20, shown open, is hinged to jigl2 and'may typically have an edge contour 21 similar to the neckbandedge. Flap 20 clamps the assembled cape and neckband portions prior toseaming as will be described shortly. A pneumatic cylinder 22 is rigidlysecured to frame 10. Referring to FIG. 2, cylinder 22 includes a pistonrod 24 which is supported by guide 25. Flexible joint 27 is attached tothe end of rod 24 and transmits axial rod motion to flap 20 thru link 23and pin joint 19. Joint 19 includes a removable pin 29 to permitdetachment of flap 20 from link 23. A leaf spring 31 is located on jigl2 and restrains flap 20 after the latter has been closed. Flap 20includes a handle member 44 for transporting jig 12 away from the frame.A plate 28 having the same thickness asjig 12 is rigidly attached toframe 10 and is in alignment with the rear edge of the jig. Plate 28includes a hump-like projection 30 which may typically be a segment of acylinder. A second hinged flap 32 is shown in a. neutral or openposition and is operatively associated with flap 20. Flap 32 includes anedge 33 which complements edge 21 of flap 20. Flap 32 further includes acut-out portion 34 which permits the flap to close without interferencefrom projection 30. A second pneumatic cylinder 36 includes a piston rod38 which is connected to flap 32 by link mechanism 40. Floor switch 60is operatively associated with pneumatic cylinders 22 and 36 and isactuated by the operator to open and close flaps 20 and 32. Typically,floor switch 60 may be of the multi-position type whereby initialactuation closes flap 32; a second actuation closes flap 20 andsimultaneously opens flap 32 and a final actuation opens flap 20.However, any other suitable arrangement known to the art could be usedto actuate and control the pneumatic cylinders.

FIG. 4 shows a cape 50 and an outer neckband and inter-liner ply 52prior to alignment and joining. The are of the neckband is flatter thanthe cape arc, creating approximately an one-eighth inch difference atthe cape midsection indicated generally as 53.

FIGS. 5 and 6 show cape 50 joined to outer neckband and interliner plies52 and 54 by seam 55.

FIG. 7 shows the parts of the collar clamped together and prior tostitching.

, In a typical operating sequence, outer neckband and interliner ply 52is placed by the operator into recess 18 with the interliner ply faceup. A cape 50 is then laid upon the surfaces of plate 28 and jig 12 sothat the free edge of the cape projects slightly into the area of therecess 18 and covers the edge of the neckband an amount sufficient toallow attachment by a seam. Projection 30 distorts the cape 50 in such away that the cape edge becomes aligned with the neckband edge. Theoperator then presses floor switch 60 to actuate cylinder 36 causingflap 32 to secure cape 50 in its distorted position. A second outerneckband ply 54 is placed in juxtaposition with the first outer ply,sandwiching cape 50 therebetween. Cylinder 22 is actuated by switch 60;flap clamps the positioned parts and simultaneously, flap 32 returns toits neutral or open position.

The parts are then joined together by a seam or, if desired, jig 12 maybe removed from the frame and transported with the assembled parts to aprofile stitching machine for subsequent joining.

Although the invention has been described with reference to specificapparatus, it will be appreciated by a person skilled in the art that awide variety of changes may be made without departing from the scope ofthis invention. Additionally, certain features may be used independentlyof others and equivalents maybe substituted for the various apparatuselements and method steps all within the spirit and scope of theinvention.

lclaim:

1. In an apparatus for handling garment collars during the fabricationthereof, the improvement including a surface having a recess therein forreceiving a first neckband part, a distorting member on the surface solocated as to lie beneath a cape part when an edge thereof extends overthe recess, a first clamp for securing the cape on the surface and asecond clamp for holding the several collar parts for stitching after asecond neckband part is aligned with said first neckband part.

2. The apparatus of claim 1 including a frame and wherein said surfaceis defined by a first base removably attached to said frame andhavingsaid recess therein and a second base rigidly attached to said frame andcoplanar with said first base, said second base including saiddistorting member on the surface thereof, said first clamp being a firstflap hingeably attached to said second base and said second clamp beinga second flap hingeably attached to said first base.

3. The apparatus claim 2 wherein said distorting member is a segment ofacylinder.

4. The apparatus of claim 3 including means for sequentially moving saidfirst and second flaps between open and closed positions. i

5. The apparatus of claim 4 wherein said means for sequentially movingsaid first and second flaps includes a first pneumatic cylinder flexiblyattached'to said first flap, a second pneumatic cylinder flexiblyattached to said second flap and a switch operatively associated withsaid pneumatic cylinders for actuating said cylinders in sequence.

6. A method of positioning cape and neckband parts prior to joining toform a completed collar including the steps of a. overlapping an arcuateedge of a first neckband part with an unfinished arcuate edge of a capepart;

b. distorting the body of said cape part to change the curvature of saidunfinished arcuate edge whereby said arcuateedges of said first neckbandpart and said cape are in alignment;

c. aligning a second neckband part with said first neckband part so asto sandwich the cape v therebetween;

d. clamping said aligned parts to fix the positions thereof, and

e. stitching the positioned parts together.

- a a: a: a: w

1. In an apparatus for handling garment collars during the fabricationthereof, the improvement including a surface having a recess therein forreceiving a first neckband part, a distorting member on the surface solocated as to lie beneath a cape part when an edge thereof extends overthe recess, a first clamp for securing the cape on the surface and asecond clamp for holding the several collar parts for stitching after asecond neckband part is aligned with said first neckband part.
 2. Theapparatus of claim 1 including a frame and wherein said surface isdefined by a first base removably attached to said frame and having saidrecess therein and a second base rigidly attached to said frame andcoplanar with said first base, said second base including saiddistorting member on the surface thereof, said first clamp being a firstflap hingeably attached to said second base and said second clamp beinga second flap hingeably attached to said first base.
 3. The apparatusclaim 2 wherein said distorting member is a segment of a cylinder. 4.The apparatus of claim 3 including means for sequentially moving saidfirst and second flaps between open and closed positions.
 5. Theapparatus of claim 4 wherein said means for sequentially moving saidfirst and second flaps includes a first pneumatic cylinder flexiblyattached to said first flap, a second pneumatic cylinder flexiblyattached to said second flap and a switch operatively associated withsaid pneumatic cylinders for actuating said cylinders in sequence.
 6. Amethod of positioning cape and neckband parts prior to joining to form acompleted collar including the steps of a. overlapping an arcuate edgeof a first neckband part with an unfinished arcuate edge of a cape part;b. distorting the body of said cape part to change the curvature of saidunfinished arcuate edge whereby said arcuate edges of said firstneckband part and said cape are in alignment; c. aligning a secondneckband part with said first neckband part so as to sandwich the capetherebetween; d. clamping said aligned parts to fix the positionsthereof, and e. stitching the positioned parts together.